May 5, 2015

Eyeshadow: Mattes and Frosts



Eyeshadow is a tool, like any other cosmetic, meant to enhance the eyes, rather than to stand alone as an entity, which unfortunately with some of the colors and types available as well as inappropriate application, can break the overall look.  Eyeshadow is about contouring to create a perfect eye, it is not about color other than subtly used to enhance the eye color itself.  And there are many fantastic looks to create with the proper application and varying types.

Eyeshadow should be applied as well with the occasion in mind, in addition to age, facial type, eye type, eye color, and to a point the clothing being worn, at least whether the clothing is warm or cool and the colors work together.

Powder mattes are the best choice.  They are a solid color, considered to have a flat surface with no shine.  They do not contain any shimmer or glitter or frost and should be used for the basis of application.  Mattes on the lid in a medium shade and mattes in the crease in a deeper shade.  Highlighting is just that, to highlight, to reflect light and you want to highlight at the top of the eye area, just beneath the brow bone to make this area stand out so as to create the illusion of the eye as deep-set (which the dark color also does in the crease).  If any shimmering or glittering eyeshadow is applied, it should be as a highlighter only and preferably in the evening or for a special occasion.  Sparkles, frosts and sunshine just don=t mix.

Shimmers and frosts and glitters though do not work well for over forty at any time of the day or night.  Over forty needs to play down the areas that are beginning to wrinkle: crows feet, and sunken eyes.  We do not want to bring a negative focus to these areas with the use of glitters and frosts.  Let the younger gals use these and stay with the mattes for a highlighter as well so that you will have a smooth, clean and classy look.

Typically when you purchase an eyeshadow multi-pack or compact, there are a mix of both mattes and frosts, with more of the latter for some reason.  To avoid having a stock of colors you will not be using, purchasing eyeshadow in individual containers will allow you to choose exactly the shades best suited for you and to create a collection of these.

A word on cream shadows, which are very seldom available in mattes: creams can be difficult to work with.  They dry quickly, are difficult to apply and usually we end up trying to blend with the fingers as the wands are too saturated with color and it can therefore be difficult to control the amount of shadow applied.  It is also more difficult to correct mistakes (which for any eyeshadow, liner or mascara mistake made you should use a cotton swab for easy, quick, clean corrections).  Creams are tricky and require practice.  Oily skin types are not going to hold a cream as well.  The one advantage to creams is staying power and in given situations such as a day outdoors, swimming, athletics, etc., if purchased in a waterproof form, they will stay with you.  But for everyday wear, and especially special occasions where you really want to create, blend and contour, creams are not ideal.


By all means experiment in your leisure to find the look and product that=s right for you, for your coloring, and for the occasion.  

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