Video and Article - Makeup Formulas and Applications for the Mature Face/Over 40-50

Watch the video here or on my YouTube Channel, The Makeup Ranch.

As women age, it becomes increasingly more important to find the right products and applications to complement the aging process, to help it appear to slow down or even reverse. If you are over forty or fifty and still applying your makeup the same way that you did in your twenties, it is likely time for a makeover.

Following are some tips to help you through the transition and the changes that begin to occur in your skin and facial bone structure. Many factors can cause the actual shape or bone structure of the mature face to change including age, dentures, and injury or illness. All of these variables must be taken into account when applying makeup to the mature face.

Foundation

When selecting a foundation for the mature face, it should not be too dry. It should be somewhat moist but not shiny. For starters, anything with too much sheen or sparkle will “sit” in the creases and draw immediate attention from an onlooker’s eye. Secondly, too much sheen on a mature face looks unnatural. A moist but beautiful matte finish looks best.

See my article on choosing a foundation but just a quick overview, usually liquid foundations are best for normal to oily skin while creams are better for normal to dry skin, in other words, normal skin types may go either way depending on your preference. There is a happy medium with a whipped formula which I use when doing a full glamour look and I recommend for more mature skin  as it offers excellent coverage with a wonderful moisturizing effect. Loose or pressed mineral foundations may work well for most skin types and I do use a loose mineral foundation for even though I have dry skin, I find that they are somewhat moisturizing, more so than a regular loose or pressed powder and I like it for a day-to-day natural look.

Be sure to finish the foundation with translucent powder to tone down any products that may have too much sheen.

Cheeks

A popular sparkling frosted highlighter for the cheeks

Sparkly cheek highlighter should be applied only from the hairline out toward the front of the face stopping before the peak of the cheekbone and the under eye area so as not to get any sparkle into the under eye wrinkles which will cause them to be more visible.

As our faces mature, they can begin to “sink” or look drawn; areas that we previously contoured in darker shades have become sunken and rather than contour to sink them further, we now need to lighten them up and bring them back out to give the appearance of a more youthful, filled-out face and this includes any contouring beneath the cheekbones in a very dark color.

Get in front of the mirror and do a cheek-check. If the area located straight down below the outer pupil and in line with the end of the nose (the center of the side of the face just below the cheekbone) has become “sunken” or hollowed-out, do not contour in the area. Rather, your contour will begin behind it and on back towards the hairline but not all the way to the hairline if there is any change or “sink” in the facial bone structure outlining the face.

Look at these frosted sparkling colors, then imagine what the sunlight hitting these colors on top of wrinkles is going to do to the face. If you want to test it. apply the colors to the top of the cheekbone where the under eye meets the cheek bone, then take your mirror to a well-light window or outdoors to see the full effect.

It can be very tempting to use frosted and sparkled highlighter because there are so many beautiful brands on the marketing offering frosted looks from pale to bronze. If you choose to use one, a sparing application in the area with the least creases as noted above will offer the best look. 

Example packs of matte blush colors with beautiful matte highlighters

Otherwise, stick with matted colors for the cheeks and any highlighting. 

Eyes

Sparkle or frosted colors can be worn on the mature eyes but is best only applied in the center of the lid in a light color or by partially lining the outer upper and lower corners sweeping upward at the corner and going no further inward than the outer edge of the pupil. Apply colors to the remainder of the eyes in matte shades which work easily to “soften” the eyes.

Lips 

A moisturizing formula is best. No dry matte formulas. Use a matte only if it is a moisturizing formula. If the lip color is not moisturizing, the already dried skin of mature lips will appear even dryer.

Beautiful, lighter colors in a moisturizing formula and here is where you get to add more sparkle!

Dark colors are not the best choice for the mature face because as we age our lips tend to become drawn (and wrinkled) therefore making the lips and mouth appear smaller. Darker colors recede so a dark lip shade will only make the mature lips look smaller or more drawn. Dark matte colors look the worst, lighter is better.

One trick, if you want to use a darker lip color, is to apply the shade, then blot, then apply one of the new nude tones over it in a tone that matches the darker shade and be sure to use a brand that is highly moisturizing. This will remove any harshness yet will still allow the darker color that you desire. A lighter glossy lip stain is best for older lips and gives a subtle color while moisturizing.

Finish everything with a final sweep of translucent powder to tone everything down just a notch as well as to set all of the makeup. Include a sweep over the eye shadow and the lip color as well. Apply any lip gloss after the last sweep of translucent powder.

Remember one of the main keys to a great look is to blend, blend, and blend so that there are no harsh lines which will also draw attention to any creases or wrinkles in the skin. Makeup brushes, cosmetic sponges or whatever your preference, there are plenty of tools to help you smooth and blend to perfection.

Stay hydrated; drink plenty of water and if in a dry climate, sleeping with a humidifier can do wonders (I call it a “beautifier”). Keeping yourself hydrated is one of the best things that you can do for mature skin. As we age, the thirst mechanism slows down so we are not cued to drink water as often so drink even if you do not feel thirsty.

Of course there are no rules, you may do as you please, use the colors, formulas and techniques that you like but for the prettiest and most youthful experience, the tips listed here will help you to achieve the best look possible for your age. The mature face can still do many of the looks or products that the young women are doing but it is a matter of how and where we use them. Remember light and less is better with age. You can still use bright colors and make them pop; just be a little more sparing with the appropriate applications.

We can be bold and beautiful at any age and color becomes even more important so that we do not looked washed out or drawn. Step out, step into your color, as long as it is applied in the best light for you, you can wear it well!